I started standup surfing in October 2007. Soon after I started to realize people I knew, even friends I had surfed with for years, were not too glad to see me when I went out into the water with my new sport. Startling to me and from there I began to figure out why.

The same thing happened in the water when long boards came back in and short boards were no longer able to compete. Meaning, long boards float so much better, a short boarder had no chance of positioning and catching any waves when the long boards were out.. Hence, surfers got sick of the long boarders.

The standup surfers have to take some responsibility for this for the simple reason, they can take over a spot and leave nothing for the surfers. They have done it all over the World so I won‘t concentrate on Hawaii. Poor will has been caused by not sharing the water -- not trading off..

Over Christmas I read Duke Kahanamoku's story AGAIN. He is the true father of surfing for lots of reasons. First being the most accomplished athlete in the World for the longest time still, ever. He did not allow conflict in the water between surfers.  Two things to live by from the Duke: "Don't hog the doggone waves." "Whoever is next in line, it's their wave." He can easily be respected for his approach to life governed by Aloha. His philosophy is easily followed. Listen up guys. He's The Duke.

Respectfully,

Scott Bucknell